Tomorrow, before she heads back to London, she has a plan: “I’d like to go see the light. Asked about her day-after-the-show itinerary, she said, “What you forget about is the light in New York, the light is so clear and sharp. Though no mushroom leather was used in the collection she said she and her team are running trials with it and with other substitute leathers, and that 85% of the collection’s materials were upcycled. Burton brings that awareness and a woman-centered approach to what she’s doing here. Many years on, that struggle is more real than ever. McQueen would’ve likely dug the mycelium he was always intrigued by the elements, always finding his way back to a nature vs. Burton said these were inspired by yet another archival McQueen collection, Number 13, the show in which the model Shalom Harlow and her strapless white dress were painted by a pair of robots normally used in the automotive industry in a sort of erotic dance. Most notable were the suits that looked like they’d been spray-painted with the shadow of a rushing body. “I wanted it to have a pace to it and an energy to it… and there to be color,” Burton said. Other sharply cut pantsuits picked up the psychedelic colors of those mushrooms-acid green and yellow, electric blue, bright red. A smoking with a crystal-embellished back panel and a spangled bandeau in place of a shirt would be a glamorously restrained red carpet look for what’s likely to be a sober Oscars ceremony at the end of the month. Get up-to-the-minute fashion show coverage at New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks. She was in New York City, after all, so she didn’t neglect to show off the label’s sartorialism. Backstage Burton was talking about mycelium, the underground fungal network that’s sometimes called nature’s “wood wide web,” connecting trees with one another and transferring nutrients and minerals plant-to-plant.īurton’s McQueen is a thoughtful balance of hand craft and haute tailleur. Piles of mulch made from fallen trees gave off a peaty tang in the Brooklyn warehouse venue (it’ll be reused in plantings, she said), and birds and insects chirped on the speakers before the soundtrack settled into the groove of “A Forest” by The Cure. This show was rooted in the elements, as well, though it wasn’t water that was her focus, but earth. “It feels part of our creative community. “America and New York have always been so much a part of McQueen,” she said backstage. Sarah Burton was with him on both trips, and she was back in New York tonight to present her fall 2022 collection for the label. The 1999 show will go down as among the wettest in fashion history, with torrential rain flooding the streets and a runway submerged in several inches of water. Lee Alexander McQueen brought his show to New York twice, first in 1996 with Dante and again in 1999 for Eye.
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